As part of my continuing coverage of luxury watches that pique my interest, I have to give Roger Dubuis credit: the brand knows how to make a watch that demands attention. The latest to tickle my horological fancy is Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy – a shining example of a timepiece sure to garner praise from collectors.
Inspired by 17th-century Japan, the limited edition timepiece reimagines Roger Dubuis’ long-running Knights of the Round Table concept through the world of the samurai. Instead of twelve medieval knights, the 45mm pink-gold case surrounds the dial with 12 hand-engraved Kabuto helmets, each representing a legendary Japanese commander.
And then there is the breathtaking dial.
At the center sits an abstract interpretation of Edo Castle, crafted from 17 individual elements in pink gold, black PVD, and deep blue CVD. The blue continues onto the calfskin strap, whose stitched leather construction evokes traditional samurai armor. This is a watch clearly telling time boldly and imaginatively.
The attention to detail is simply beyond. Tokugawa Ieyasu, Honda Tadakatsu and Date Masamune are among the commanders represented, while the caseback features the crests of all 12 samurai. Roger Dubuis consulted Japanese history professor Frederik Cryns, known for his work on the series Shōgun, to assist in ensuring the historical references were properly represented.
Inside is the automatic RD821 caliber, carrying the Poinçon de Genève certification, functioning at 4Hz with a 48-hour power reserve. Subtlety has no place here, with the watch measuring a grand 16.87mm in thickness.
With only 28 pieces produced, it is not for everyone, and collectors will have to battle it out to add one to their arsenal. The Kabuto Legacy is exactly the type of theatrical craftsmanship that makes people stop and notice. The final verdict?
Glamorous.
Excessive.
Unapologetically extra.
Triston Brewer is a luxury lifestyle and men’s watch journalist with coverage at Watches & Wonders to the pages of The Manual and syndication across Yahoo. At TREMG, he is on a quest to uncover the micro and indie brands quietly reshaping the industry — one limited edition at a time.
