The dress watch is back in the menswear conversation, and Gröne Oldenzaal just made the case for its return.
A Principia Pedigree, Re-engineered for Access
Tim and Bart Grönefeld, the brothers behind one of independent watchmaking’s most respected ateliers, have recently released the third chapter of Gröne Oldenzaal –the duo’s luxury brand launched in 2024. The new Horologium is quintessential Grönefeld, featuring a 39mm x 10mm stainless steel case, signature concave polished bezel, downward-curving lugs and conical crown. Also, watch collectors will rejoice in the sapphire crystals now in front and back accented by signature orange gaskets.
Offered in two distinct personalities, the dial does the talking. The Quirky leans into its Dutch heritage with a vivid orange center, baby blue accents and matching stitched strap. The Classic is pure restraint: a sunray-brushed salmon dial, silver-toned registers, and heat-blued steel hands. Both feature diamond-cut, hand-applied baton markers and a raised, diamond-cut small seconds plateau — a detail first seen on the Moment Meter.
Hand-Wound Integrity
Where the Manueel One used central seconds, the Horologium shifts to small seconds, powered by a hand-wound La Joux-Perret G100. Beating at 28,800 vph with a 60-hour power reserve, the caliber is finished with Côtes de Genève, polished anglage and blued screws, visible through the exhibition caseback. The Quirky bears the inscription: “Zoals het klokje thuis tikt, tikt het nergens” — there’s no place like home.
Limited to just 188 pieces per variant, it is available via grone.com.
Why It Belongs in the Modern Menswear Rotation
At 39mm, this is not a nostalgia piece. It is a precise, hand-wound dress watch that anchors tailoring without competing with it. Collectors interested in diversifying their timepiece portfolio would be wise to consider adding this on into the mix while supplies last.
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